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The big trend in the bicycle sector is called gravel bike, a mixture of racing bike and cyclocross bike.

Gravel, gravel, dirt - this is where a gravel bike feels most at home. At first glance you might think that a gravel bike is a racing bike with thick tires. Of course it's not quite that simple. In order to get to the bottom of the matter, we have to approach the whole thing in a somewhat structured manner.

- What is a gravel bike used for?

- What distinguishes a gravel bike ?

- What are the differences to the classic racing bike ?

- Is a gravel bike the same as a cyclocross bike ?

The gravel bike

is a sporty and at the same time comfortable bike. It can be driven easily on the road, but also off the road - and that's what it's intended for. A gravel bike certainly doesn't have as long a history and tradition as bikes for road cycling, but to put it simply you could say that it is a racing bike that can simply do a little more than its direct relative.

The gravel bike takes advantage of the pleasant characteristics of a racing bike - for example the agility, the sportiness and of course the riding pleasure - and adds a few extra skills: greater flexibility when selecting routes, more grip on unpaved surfaces or safe all-weather use, to name just a few key points. A bike like this can be used in a variety of ways: Be it for the way to work, for a leisurely tour with the family or even for training purposes without any problems or concerns - any compromises? First of all, none

Of course, the interesting question is what the actual differences are between a gravel bike and a racing bike and how it distinguishes itself as such. In addition to the gravel bike, there is also the cross bike - a special variant that you will get a short digression about at the very end of the article. We're sticking with gravel for now.

The tires

Let's look at what's obvious first: the tires. We are familiar with narrow, barely treaded tires from road bikes - ideally puncture-proof for training and with low rolling resistance for competition. Typically, the tire width is 23-25 ​​millimeters. The slippers on the gravel bike are different, but by no means useless when you're on the road: The wide, profiled tires provide enormous comfort and a pleasant ride on asphalt. The typical gravel tire measures 40 millimeters.

On unpaved paths - in the forest, on gravel, in mud or sand, in "gravel feel-good terrain" so to speak - you rarely lose control of the bike thanks to the wider contact surface and profile, and driving safety and stability noticeably increase. Another point that we as triathletes shouldn't completely forget: riding off-road places new demands on bike control, coordination and riding technique. Not a bad attraction, especially for those who like to compete on technically demanding routes.

Handlebars and grips

There are three points of contact between rider and material: saddle, pedals and handlebars. So one after the other. The eye-catching brake levers on the handlebars are striking. By the way, it makes no difference whether these come from Shimano or SRAM; both manufacturers provide a lot of grip thanks to a special profile. Ultimately, despite mud, water or other influences, it should be ensured that the handlebars don't suddenly slip through your fingers. There is obviously no guarantee, but grooved or grained grips are practically standard on gravel bikes.

Another distinguishing feature from a racing bike is the handlebars: on a gravel bike, these are slightly wider than we are used to on a road bike. This is because it allows for a wider grip position, which in turn improves control of the bike. Comfort also plays an important role - shocks or vibrations in rough terrain are distributed a little better and driving becomes more pleasant.

It is also noticeable that the lower links on the gravel bike are angled slightly outwards. You can also see in the photo that the brake handles are positioned slightly from top-inside to bottom-outside. Not because the mechanic looked askance, but because it makes handling better and easier.

Components

There are special components for gravel bikes, yes. For example, the GRX series from Shimano. If I were to sum it up succinctly, then I would probably lightly say that it is a cross between mountain bike and racing bike components. For example, I installed an 11/34 cassette at the back - I probably never need 34 teeth on a racing bike, but I almost certainly need them on a mountain bike. My large chainring at the front has 48 teeth, the small one has 31 - on a racing bike I would say that this is a children's set, but on a gravel bike it is a perfect combination in the combination with 11/34 at the rear.

Personally, I ride the electronic Di2 version, which is now also widely used on racing bikes and TT bikes. I love the precision and honestly don't want to be without it anymore. But - and this doesn't just apply to the question of whether mechanical or electronic shifting - in the end, anything is possible on a gravel bike. For example, if you need a different gradation on the cassette, feel free! If you prefer to ride with just one chainring at the front instead of two, do it!

And a quick look at the brakes: It's almost logical that disc brakes can be found on gravel bikes. The reliability of these brakes is simply unbeatable when riding your bike through the dirt, picking up puddles and/or riding in changing weather conditions. There really isn't much to say at this point.

geometry

Let's get to the things that you might not immediately recognize at first glance. Geometry and wheelbase. Simply put, the wheelbase means how far the front and rear wheels are apart. The wheelbase of a gravel bike is longer than that of a racing bike. This creates smoother running and the driving dynamics typical of gravel, which are characterized by the described feeling of safety and comfort.

Although it may sound like gravel bikes and racing bikes are identical in all areas except for the technical components, that's not entirely true: the geometry of a gravel bike is definitely designed more for comfort, while most racing bikes are much sportier Frame designs can be found.

For example, on many gravel bikes you can see a longer rear triangle in order to increase the wheelbase - we've already discussed this topic. Gravel bikes also tend to have a longer head tube than racing bikes and the frames often have a slopped shape (in words: the top tube slopes slightly from the head tube towards the seat tube) for reasons of additional comfort.

But no cyclocross!

On one side of the gravel bike is the racing bike we know and are familiar with. On the other side is the cross bike. As some of you may know, there are so-called cyclo cross races. (If you don't know it yet: it's worth watching the races as a spectator!). A cross bike also quickly reminds you of a racing bike. And it actually comes a little closer to it than the gravel bike. It is significantly more tuned for performance: The geometry is designed for a more aggressive, sporty seating position - less for comfort.

While a gravel bike is about longer touring, a cross bike is designed much more for use in competition - cyclo cross. If you want to take part in such races, then unfortunately you “have” to avoid the gravel bike. To take part in cyclo cross competitions, you need a bike that meets the UCI guidelines. This is usually the case with cross bikes and can easily be checked using the corresponding UCI label.

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